Pilgrimage has been defined as ‘a meaningful journey to a place of spiritual significance’ and the benefit lies as much in following the ‘Camino,’ or way, as it does in arriving at the sacred place itself.
Last August I joined 90 other pilgrims on one of the five official walks organised annually by Ballintubber Abbey of Tóchar Phádraig, which is the oldest way of approaching the summit of Croagh Patrick.
Tóchar Phádraig is also known as St. Patrick’s Causeway and this ancient medieval path dates back to pre Christian times. It was originally a chariot road for the Kings and Queens of Connacht as they travelled from Rathcrogan in Co. Roscommon to Cruachain Aigle as Croagh Patrick was formally known near Westport in Co Mayo.
Croagh Patrick has always been a site of pagan pilgrimage especially during the summer solstice when the historic Lughnasa festivals were celebrated. It is said that Patrick climbed the already sacred mountain at the time of this festival in the year 441. He then spent 40 days and 40 nights in penance and prayer at the summit of this striking pyramidal, quartz mountain. As representative of the newly arrived Christian faith he sought to draw the Irish people away from their long-established deities and win them over to the new, one and true God. And so, as Croagh Patrick became Christianised the paths leading to it became more popular and Tóchar Phádraig down through the ages has been thronged with Christian’s, eager to take part in the Catholic penitial act of pilgrimage. Over the years however this Pilgrim Way to the reek naturally declined and disappeared, until 1987 when Father Frank Fahey oversaw its restoration and brought back to life this historic, spiritual journey, following the footsteps of Ireland’s Patron Saint, Saint Patrick.
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Last August my husband and I joined 90 other pilgrims on the Tóchar Phádraig, also known as St Patrick’s Causeway, an ancient path from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick in Co. Mayo. I had wanted to do the 35km pilgrimage for a while and as the Abbey was celebrating its 800th year anniversary I decided it was time to commit to doing it.
Ballintubber takes its name from St. Patrick himself; ‘Baile tobair Phádraig’ means the townland of St Patrick’s Well. There are still ruins near to this magnificent Abbey of the old original church that dates back to St. Patrick’s time, and the well, where he baptised his converts in the area also lies within the grounds.
We all congregated inside the Abbey and Father Fahey invited us to light a candle for our own intentions and as a symbol of our faith before we set off. He reminded us that there were certain ‘rules’ to the Tóchar Phádraig if we were to distinguish ourselves as pilgrims as supposed to observational tourists. They included that for our penance there was to be absolutely no complaining and if we got soaked by the rain, were suffering from blisters or accidently stood in a cowpat we were to say ‘Thanks be to God’ instead. Give thanks that at least we were able-bodied and hopefully fit enough to embark on this spiritual journey.
We should look inwards, and maybe think about one thing that we might like to improve or change about ourselves or our lives and by the end, that insight of mind might indeed bring about a change of heart. We made our way to the statue of St Patrick next to the ruined ‘Doncora’ or bath of the righteous, where Pilgrims of old used to spiritually and literally cleanse themselves on their return from the Holy mountain. As we set off in small groups, Croagh Patrick although in clear sight with a halo of cloud resting upon it, seemed a very long, way away.
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We left Ballintubber Abbey and set out on the pilgrim’s route of Tóchar Phádraig or St Patrick’s Causeway in Co Mayo. We followed the recently upgraded signposts that clearly directed us across the multitude of fields, styles, woods and bog land. The terrain at the start was easy going and with Father Fahey’s penance instructions of ‘no complaining’ still fresh in our minds we were all in good spirits. Having observed the periods of silence through the woods following tracks no doubt created over time by the repetitive nature of man and beast, we entered onto wide open grass fields, the iconic pyramidal view of Croagh Patrick always in sight. As it was one of the Tóchar walks organised by the Abbey a backup car and driver frequently met us along the way with water, biscuits and words of encouragement.
The Tóchar lead us through many different farmers’ lands and it’s through their good will that Pilgrims and visitors are allowed to travel through their fields along this ancient path. It was wonderful being so close to nature, and to have the time to observe and acknowledge the rich flora and fauna of the unspoilt Mayo countryside. The blackberries in particular were abundant and indeed provided sustenance along the way. All along the route there were information signs telling us of local stories and bits of history about ringforts, ruined castles and churches, famine graves, Sean na Saggart the notorious priest hunter and numerous legends about St Patrick himself.
The halfway mark and welcomed lunch stop brought us to the village of Aughagower where St Patrick also visited on his way to the Reek. It was a chance to rest, share our food, reflect on our journey so far, and prepare for the tougher terrain ahead leading us to this mystical, sacred, historical Holy mountain.
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We left the village of Aughagower for the second half of the 35km ancient pilgrim path, Tóchar Phádraig that travels from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo. Just beyond the 11th century round tower, there was a perfect viewing point of the Holy mountain. The clouds had lifted from its conical, quartzite peak and the well worn path leading to the summit clearly visible for miles around was almost encouraging us to keep following the undulating path across the green fields below. These grassy pastures led onto narrow roads lined with stone walls surrounded by bog land and a noticeable amount of mountain ash trees laden with their bright red berries. Apart from a farmer moving his sheep, no vehicles passed our way.
We arrived at one of the most important points on the Tóchar, The Boheh stone. This large boulder dates back to the Bronze Age and is decorated with small circular hollows known as cupmarks, similar to the well known carvings at New Grange. This stone was later Christianised and became known as St Patrick’s chair.
Father Frank Fahey joined us here and celebrated mass from the Boheh stone. We were reminded of the historical and spiritual journey we were making, walking in the same footsteps of so many that had had gone before us who were also marked by the sign of faith. Generations of people have followed these steps of St Patrick and walking 35km certainly allows time to reflect and think about life’s burdens but more importantly maybe to reflect and give thanks for life’s many blessings. The journey from here was quite tough although Croagh Patrick was getting closer constantly drawing us further on. We finally reached the foot of the mountain. A chance to catch our breath, look up, take a moment to gaze at the summit and prepare for the boggy ascent.
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Climbing Croagh Patrick from the less popular Eastern side is the final part of the 35km ancient pilgrim path Tóchar Phádraig. The ascent looks out onto acres of bog and barren landscape but as you reach the shoulder of the mountain, the view of Clew bay and the 365 little islands it surrounds suddenly appears in front of you. It is the same magnificent view that would have greeted St Patrick as he journeyed to the summit to spend his 40 days and 40 nights of prayer and penance. It is breathtaking. I am reminded of Father Fahey’s words as we left Ballintubber Abbey that morning,
‘As you walk the Tóchar you will be going not only on a spiritual pilgrimage, but on a historical journey down through the ages also. And both experiences, if fully entered into, should bring about that change of heart and insight of mind which is essential to a pilgrim’s progress.’
The gleaming peak of Croagh Patrick can be seen from all across Co. Mayo and has drawn generations to climb the mountain for thousands of years. St Patrick’s faith surely lives on in all the millions of people who have trodden in his footsteps after him.
The booklet, ‘Spiritual guide to Patricks Path’ says, ‘Mountains speak to us, they make us look up, they draw us irresistibly towards the beyond, they touch our souls.’
And on Croagh Patrick you can’t help but to stop and stare, the climb is an achievement in itself.
So, on this Holy day when people all over the world commemorate Irelands patron saint I remember my Tóchar Phádraig last year, it was tough at times, it took all day, the descent from Croagh Patrick was joyous, the blisters were a penance and the Guinness we enjoyed at the end, at the foot of the Reek, never tasted so good.
