Pilgrimage has been defined as ‘a meaningful journey to a place of spiritual significance’ and
the benefit lies as much in following the ‘Camino,’ or way, as it does in arriving at the sacred
place itself.
I joined 90 other pilgrims on one of the five official walks organised annually by Ballintubber
Abbey of Tóchar Phádraig, which is the oldest way of approaching the summit of Croagh
Patrick.
Tóchar Phádraig is also known as St. Patrick’s Causeway and this ancient medieval path
dates back to pre Christian times. It was originally a chariot road for the Kings and Queens of
Connacht as they travelled from Rathcrogan in Co. Roscommon to Cruachain Aigle as Croagh
Patrick was formally known near Westport in Co Mayo.
Croagh Patrick has always been a site of pagan pilgrimage especially during the summer
solstice when the historic Lughnasa festivals were celebrated. It is said that Patrick climbed
the already sacred mountain at the time of this festival in the year 441. He then spent 40
days and 40 nights in penance and prayer at the summit of this striking pyramidal, quartz
mountain. As representative of the newly arrived Christian faith he sought to draw the Irish
people away from their long-established deities and win them over to the new, one and true
God. And so, as Croagh Patrick became Christianised the paths leading to it became more
popular and Tóchar Phádraig down through the ages has been thronged with Christian’s,
eager to take part in the Catholic penitential act of pilgrimage. Over the years however this
Pilgrim Way to the reek naturally declined and disappeared, until 1987 when Father Frank
Fahey oversaw its restoration and brought back to life this historic, spiritual journey,
following the footsteps of Ireland’s Patron Saint, Saint Patrick.
Last year my husband and I joined 90 other pilgrims on the Tóchar Phádraig, also known as
St Patrick’s Causeway, an ancient path from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick in Co.
Mayo. I had wanted to do the 35km pilgrimage for a while.
Ballintubber takes its name from St. Patrick himself; ‘Baile Tobair Phádraig’ means the
townland of St Patrick’s Well. There are still ruins near to this magnificent Abbey of the old
original church that dates back to St. Patrick’s time, and the well, where he baptised his
converts in the area also lies within the grounds.
We all congregated inside the Abbey and Father Fahey invited us to light a candle for our
own intentions and as a symbol of our faith before we set off. He reminded us that there
were certain ‘rules’ to the Tóchar Phádraig if we were to distinguish ourselves as pilgrims as
supposed to observational tourists. They included that for our penance there was to be
absolutely no complaining and if we got soaked by the rain, were suffering from blisters or
accidently stood in a cowpat we were to say ‘Thanks be to God’ instead. Give thanks that at
least we were able-bodied and hopefully fit enough to embark on this spiritual journey. We
should look inwards, and maybe think about one thing that we might like to improve or
change about ourselves or our lives and by the end, that insight of mind might indeed bring
about a change of heart. We made our way to the statue of St Patrick next to the ruined
‘Doncora’ or bath of the righteous, where Pilgrims of old used to spiritually and literally
cleanse themselves on their return from the Holy mountain. As we set off in small groups,
Croagh Patrick although in clear sight with a halo of cloud resting upon it, seemed a very
long, way away.
We left Ballintubber Abbey and set out on the pilgrim’s route of Tóchar Phádraig or St
Patrick’s Causeway in Co Mayo. We followed the recently upgraded signposts that clearly
directed us across the multitude of fields, styles, woods and bog land. The terrain at the
start was easy going and with Father Fahey’s penance instructions of ‘no complaining’ still
fresh in our minds we were all in good spirits. Having observed the periods of silence
through the woods following tracks no doubt created over time by the repetitive nature of
man and beast, we entered onto wide open grass fields, the iconic pyramidal view of Croagh
Patrick always in sight. As it was one of the Tóchar walks organised by the Abbey a backup
car and driver frequently met us along the way with water, biscuits and words of
encouragement.
The Tóchar lead us through many different farmers’ lands and it’s through their good will
that Pilgrims and visitors are allowed to travel through their fields along this ancient path. It
was wonderful being so close to nature, and to have the time to observe and acknowledge
the rich flora and fauna of the unspoilt Mayo countryside. The blackberries in particular
were abundant and indeed provided sustenance along the way. All along the route there
were information signs telling us of local stories and bits of history about ringforts, ruined
castles and churches, famine graves, Sean na Saggart the notorious priest hunter and
numerous legends about St Patrick himself.
The halfway mark and welcomed lunch stop brought us to the village of Aughagower where
St Patrick also visited on his way to the Reek. It was a chance to rest, share our food, reflect
on our journey so far, and prepare for the tougher terrain ahead leading us to this mystical,
sacred, historical Holy mountain.
We left the village of Aughagower for the second half of the 35km ancient pilgrim path,
Tóchar Phádraig that travels from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo. Just
beyond the 11 th century round tower, there was a perfect viewing point of the Holy
mountain. The clouds had lifted from its conical, quartzite peak and the well worn path
leading to the summit clearly visible for miles around was almost encouraging us to keep
following the undulating path across the green fields below. These grassy pastures led onto
narrow roads lined with stone walls surrounded by bog land and a noticeable amount of
mountain ash trees laden with their bright red berries. Apart from a farmer moving his
sheep, no vehicles passed our way.
We arrived at one of the most important points on the Tóchar, The Boheh stone. This large
boulder dates back to the Bronze Age and is decorated with small circular hollows known as
cupmarks, similar to the well known carvings at New Grange. This stone was later
Christianised and became known as St Patrick’s chair.
Father Frank Fahey joined us here and celebrated mass from the Boheh stone. We were
reminded of the historical and spiritual journey we were making, walking in the same
footsteps of so many that had had gone before us who were also marked by the sign of
faith. Generations of people have followed these steps of St Patrick and walking 35km
certainly allows time to reflect and think about life’s burdens but more importantly maybe
to reflect and give thanks for life’s many blessings. The journey from here was quite tough
although Croagh Patrick was getting closer constantly drawing us further on. We finally
reached the foot of the mountain. A chance to catch our breath, look up, take a moment to
gaze at the summit and prepare for the boggy ascent.
Climbing Croagh Patrick from the less popular Eastern side is the final part of the 35km
ancient pilgrim path Tóchar Phádraig. The ascent looks out onto acres of bog and barren
landscape but as you reach the shoulder of the mountain, the view of Clew bay and the 365
little islands it surrounds suddenly appears in front of you. It is the same magnificent view
that would have greeted St Patrick as he journeyed to the summit to spend his 40 days and
40 nights of prayer and penance. It is breathtaking. I am reminded of Father Fahey’s words
as we left Ballintubber Abbey that morning,
‘As you walk the Tóchar you will be going not only on a spiritual pilgrimage, but on a
historical journey down through the ages also. And both experiences, if fully entered into,
should bring about that change of heart and insight of mind which is essential to a pilgrim’s
progress.’
The gleaming peak of Croagh Patrick can be seen from all across Co. Mayo and has drawn
generations to climb the mountain for thousands of years. St Patrick’s faith surely lives on in
all the millions of people who have trodden in his footsteps after him.
The booklet, ‘Spiritual guide to Patricks Path’ says,
‘Mountains speak to us, they make us look up, they draw us irresistibly towards the beyond,
they touch our souls.’ And on Croagh Patrick you can’t help but to stop and stare, the climb
is an achievement in itself.
So, around St. Patrick’s Day, when people all over the world commemorate Irelands patron
saint I remember my Tóchar Phádraig; it was tough at times, it took all day, the descent
from Croagh Patrick was joyous, the blisters were a penance and the Guinness we enjoyed
at the end, at the foot of the Reek, never tasted so good.
